I’ve enjoyed a number of trips to British Columbia Canada to Ski, yet it felt like it was time to try something new. Once hooked on the Okanagan Powder of the Canadian Rockies, it’s hard to accept anything less from a ski destination.
Niseko Japan, from Australia, strangely takes about as much transit time to visit, as BC Canada. A number of connecting flights followed by a few hours in a coach, find you at the quaint village of Upper Hirafu, 1 of 3 inter-joined resorts that circumvent that mountain.
Outlook from first landing off Hirafu
The Japanese are so polite, and the food choices were fantastic, but it’s more about the significant powder.
I travelled in March, late in the season, but conditions were quite good.
Absolutely a bucket list item
Niseko justify’s its reputation for powder, but it can come at a price. Snow depths can create logistical problems, like trying to ski or waddle uphill as you come off a lift !
The lift system is also something of much discussion. A large percentage do not have foot rests, but also do not have safety bars ! The seats are inclined sufficiently to feel as you are secure (sort of) but winds can come up and the chairs get a swing on, so if you have an issue with heights…..
There are also 4 sets of lifts to get to the top, the first 2 sets get you to the top of the tree line where you can traverse to one of the other resorts, Hanazono and Annupuri, but winds and weather can shut down the exposed upper lifts, limiting your days skiing expectation and the ability to get to the summit. A free shuttle service joins the resorts at the base for those who don’t or can’t ski between the resorts from the top on those days.
Hirafu is the central resort, and the largest, divided into Upper & Lower Hirafu. Upper Hirafu would be the ideal, closer to the main lifts, but both get the job done subject to your budget, and both have a variety of restuarants and bars for your evenings entertainment. You should also be aware that Hirafu is on quite an incline, and signs suggest grampon’s required at times to navigate what can be quite icy sidewalks.
Annupuri hosts the Hilton & Green Tree, but not much else for accommodation, not even close to that of Hirafu. So if you prefer the quiet, these can suit and they appear nicely appointed. The Hilton’s Gondola is quite small. I’m 190cm, and felt quite cramped. Ok for a ride or 2, but I wouldn’t have wanted to do that all day.
Although I travelled solo to Niseko, 2nd day I got chatting to a bloke who was with a group of endearing old farts; who kindly included me in many ski adventures, dinners and get togethers. A truly selfless guesture at a time most appreciated. I get the feeling the relaxed atmosphere Niseko prevails, made all the difference to these gentlemen welcoming my inclusion.
After a long day skiing, a visit to an Onsen becomes a mandatory conclusion. An excellent article about the Onsens can be read here. Ok, nuding up with a bunch of old blokes isn’t for everybody, but when in Rome….. It’s the simple pleasure of hot & cold spa’s, steam rooms and sauna’s after a day of hard skiing. Absolutely rejuvenating. Most Onsens are single sex for those concerned. Some are also beautifully themed, a real sensory treat, so get past any objections and try one.
Prior to dinner, I wandered around the streets of Hirafu looking for dining options over the next few days, and understanding most signs are in Japanese, it’s not always simple to work out what you are seeing. For example, the below gallery shows an unassuming refridgerator door, set into a concrete wall. A vending machine perhaps ?? I asked my new friends later that evening, and they were happy to take me back there after. What you soon discover, is this unassuming fridge door, is actually the entrance to a great little jazz bar called Bar Gyu+. A huge vinyl record library, setting a delightful atmosphere for cocktails and company. Niseko is full of such surprises.
Tips:
Many entry doors are no taller than 6 foot, or 183cm. So if you’re tall, get used to ducking. More an issue after a few drinks dinner.
Ski rentals seemed to have a good variety of sizes, but I tried to buy new XL gloves, and there was virtually nothing on offer at larger sizes.
The in resort free shuttle buses expect you to take your ski’s inside the bus, and that can be quite a challenge when crowded. Most ski resort buses elsewhere have ski racks on the outside.
The Crab Raman at Hanazono 308 (the Hanazono day lodge) is a must, as is buffet at the Niesko Northern Resort at Annupuri.
Walk around Upper & Lower Hirafu, and explore. Apre ski has many delightful choices to find.
Chalet styles buildings stand beside modern architecture; but the one thing in common, was exceptional food and service. A visit to Niseko is certainly a Bucket List must for any avid skier.
